Tokyo is another story of incense taken outside the familiar church territory we’ve all probably smelled before. It’s a full-circle exploration of humid back streets leading to a sun dappled forest bath while chasing a tail of elusive smoke.
Buen Camino is a perfume about pilgrimage inspired by Carter Weeks Maddox’s 600-mile-long walk on the 5,000 year old Camino de Santiago de Compostela. It’s a “psychotic fougere” that twists, turns and loses all sense of orientation, but ultimately provides comfort and reinvigorates a genre aching for new dynamism.
Buen Camino gathers scents from the last stretch of Camino after the toll of his exertions caught up with him and he underwent makeshift surgery from a kindly old nun. The smell from the bundle of dried Iberian lavender and immortelle she gave him to inhale for relaxation mixed with the odours of antiseptics and stiff bandages. The aroma of the hot asphalt of newly paved roads juxtaposed against the dust of the centuries-old, decaying Roman ones. And the simple joy of the Tarta de Santiago, Galician almond cake scented with spiced oranges and lemons served with espresso that he shared with his father who’d traveled to Spain to look after him on his final days on the trail.
Fantosmia is a perfume about a smell that only existed inside a perfumer’s head and his quest to recreate it. An exploration of textures; the cold and mineral juxtaposed against freshly extinguished heat filtered through shifting veils in an olfactory cat and mouse chase.
Top Notes: Black Pepper, Annatto, Cardamom, Pimento, Sisho Leaf
Heart Notes: Fennel, Cascarilla, Nutmeg
Base Notes: Oud, Mate, Castoreum, Saffron, Tobacco
A fragrant mash-up of the ancient and modern. Istanbul tips its hat to the big ambery perfumes of the early 20th century, but revamps them to fit into a 21st century modern lifestyle. Warm, viscous resins in a gentle whirl of lighthearted aromatics. Your jumper’s going to smell so good.
In recent years, the unfortunate fruity floral has become much maligned as a run-of-the-mill department store beauty counter staple. Tel Aviv feels like a bit of a reclaim of this genre. It’s cheerful and happy-go-lucky. As easy to wear as really comfortable flats that were definitely expensive.