For a die-hard fragrance fan, evernia prunastri is the stuff of legends. Most people know it as oakmoss, and some of the most groundbreaking perfumes in history, Chypre de Coty, Guerlain’s Mitsouko, Bandit from Robert Piguet and Balmain’s Vent Vert (to name just a few), were built on a backbone of oakmoss.
However it’s difficult to find classically structured chypre perfumes in modern perfume collections. Many people believe this is due to IFRA’s regulations which restrict the use of oakmoss; however, even at that small percentage, it’s still entirely possible to achieve the same level of character you’d find in fragrances decades ago. The issue is twofold. Get ready to grab your pearls and shout quelle horreur.
When customers are shopping in boutiques and beauty halls for fragrance, the perfumes they’re spraying on the smelling strips have about 15 seconds to make a compelling impression to hopefully qualify for skin time. Chypres need a good few hours on skin to allow someone to fully appreciate the movement of their trajectory so they don’t really stand much of a chance in a space like Selfridges or Harrods. This has led to them falling out of fashion.
But Ormonde Jayne is staking a reclaim. Linda Pilkington in collaboration with perfumer Geza Schoen have taken a classic oakmoss accord redolent with the scent of tangled earth on the forest floor and centered it within a modern canvas of approachable, easy-wearing cashmeran and iso-e-super. Evernia is a thoroughly contemporary spin on one of perfumery’s most beloved ingredients.
- Bergamot, Cardamom, Pink Pepper, Coriander
- Orris Butter, Lily of the Valley, Freesia, Jasmine, Violet, Moroccan Rose Absolute
- Oakmoss, Cashmeran, Sandalwood, Musk, Opponax, Iso-e-super
Perfumer: Geza Schoen and Linda Pilkington, 2021
10ml.0.35oz eau de parfum
Ingredients: Alcohol Denat, Parfum (Fragrance), Limonene, Linalool, Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT), Citral, Geraniol.
Selected and Decanted by: Hoohaa, Wadebridge House, 16 Wadebridge Square, Poundbury, Dorchester, DT1 3AQ