Mabel’s Tooth belongs to a new wave of perfumes we like to call the neo-gourmands. The trend for gourmand fragrances kicked off in 1992 with Mugler’s Angel and its overdose of ethyl maltol. Ethyl maltol is basically the smell of sugar and candyfloss. It was discovered in the 1970s; however, the discovery of maltol itself goes all the way back to the 1890s. In its pure form, maltol smells of caramel and dark fruit jam. It began being produced on an industrial scale in the 1940s for use as a flavouring ingredient.
Angel’s launch in the 1990s reshaped the stratosphere of the perfume cosmos. Its toothsome hat trick of cotton candy, caramel and praline mixed with an entire rainbow of fruits, flowers, honey and patchouli was excess purely for the sake of excess. It was as if Angel filled a massive goblet with the 1980’s and drank it down in one. All of the sugary sweet perfumes you encounter just about everywhere these days, in some way or another, goes back to Angel.
However recently we’ve seen fragrances such as Mabel’s Tooth evolving the genre of gourmand perfumes. Aromas that were once only used as novelty guilty pleasures, are now being employed with subtlety and intelligence to create sumptuous texture and comfort.
Mabel’s Tooth is a tribute to one of Freddie’s dogs. Every Christmas she was given a small piece of toffee. When she passed away, they buried her with a piece between her teeth. The toffee is there in the perfume too. Along with dark, jammy, stewed fruits and hazelnut. Freddie balances out the sweet with bitter coffee, leather and woods. He wraps all of this with a woven tapestry of sun-cured tobacco, golden oats and skin-hugging musks.
Where Mabel’s Tooth really excels, though, is the volume in which Freddie composes it at. As intriguing as its odour profiles are, he keeps them tuned to a wearable level, mixing the strange with the familiar to keep the experience of wearing Mabel’s Tooth a comfortable one.
- Honey, Grain,Hazelnut
- Leather, Woods, Tobacco, Dried Fruits
Perfumer: Freddie Albrighton, 2021
50ml / 1.7oz eau de parfum
Ingredients: Alcohol, Parfum, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Benzoate, Eugenol, Coumarin, Alpha-isomethyl ionone, Isopropyl Myristate, Propylene Glycol
Selected and Decanted by: Hoohaa, Wadebridge House, 16 Wadebridge Square, Poundbury, Dorchester, DT1 3AQ