An olfactory temper tantrum built around a collision of a leather and scalded sugar, ashy orris root and smouldered violets. Spite is the result of perfumer Carter Weeks-Maddox’s frustrations in attempting to compose a classically styled rose that was taking itself too seriously.
So many perfumes want to dance around all of the light and fluffy feelings and emotions. This one is a reminder that sometimes it’s okay to throw your toys, and you might as well have a scent to go with it.
Christophe Laudamiel, the world’s foremost Master Perfumer, described Carter’s work as, “what a feat”, which is incredibly high praise for a perfumer just dipping his toes into the water. Definitely one to keep your nose on!
Spite Eau de Parfum is not an intense variation of Spite Eau de Toilette, but rather a new adaptation and a different fragrance altogether and the second installment in a broader, ongoing series of work exploring the many facets of spiteful urges and their consequences, as well as the situations within which they manifest.
The narrative informing the composition of Spite brings together four spiteful spirits from history, literature and Greek mythology. Every note you might discover in the perfume’s trajectory relates back to these characters - Shakespeare’s Viola, Oscar Wilde, Mary Magdalene and Cynara from Greek Mythology.
The exploration of green notes in Spite EdP have no sylvan freshness or diaphanous fairy wings. They’re all sepia-toned, withered and thorny. Accompanied by a scorn of cold, bloodless floral notes and earthy vegetation which surrounds a surprisingly soft centre that you only catch the briefest flashes of.
Pimento Berry, Plai, Peony, French Lavender, White Rose of York, Bourbon Rose, Guava, Red Thyme
Rose Vine & Thorn, Tuberose, Green Carnation, Molle Jasmine, Nasturtium, Artichoke, Iranian Galbanum
Chrysanthemum, Ruh Khus, Spikenard, Crystalline Rose Otto, Green Sacra Frankincense, Hawaiian Sandalwood
Buen Camino is a perfume about pilgrimage inspired by Carter Weeks Maddox’s 600-mile-long walk on the 5,000 year old Camino de Santiago de Compostela. It’s a “psychotic fougere” that twists, turns and loses all sense of orientation, but ultimately provides comfort and reinvigorates a genre aching for new dynamism.
Buen Camino gathers scents from the last stretch of Camino after the toll of his exertions caught up with him and he underwent makeshift surgery from a kindly old nun. The smell from the bundle of dried Iberian lavender and immortelle she gave him to inhale for relaxation mixed with the odours of antiseptics and stiff bandages. The aroma of the hot asphalt of newly paved roads juxtaposed against the dust of the centuries-old, decaying Roman ones. And the simple joy of the Tarta de Santiago, Galician almond cake scented with spiced oranges and lemons served with espresso that he shared with his father who’d traveled to Spain to look after him on his final days on the trail.
The day you'll encounter in Playalinda is dreamy, witnessed through the haze of memory. It leads with hyper realistic, sun-warmed peach rendered through generous doses of osmanthus and full-bodied jasmine sambac. Also featured is the dirty-hair aspect of ambrette seed undergirded by familiar, grounding patchouli and vetiver. A gentle touch of sulfuric white grapefruit affords the composition a deeply human smell of skin bronzed and kissed with sweat under the day's hot sun.
And it's in Playalinda's musty base full of smoke, the inky heft of oakmoss and brine of fresh seaweed washing ashore. The glorious yet underutilized choya nakh, made from crushed and toasted seashells, reinforces Playalinda's dreamy memoryscape by the sea.
The real Playalinda is a nude beach sat on immaculate and pristine land's end. Among its many charms is a paradox: it is so untouched by modern development, yet so close to some of the most advanced technology on earth—rocket launchpads—that it seems to exist independent of time.
Live Copper Wire,Ambrette Seed, White Grapefruit, Suntanned Skin